Jean-Marc Blain-Gagnard, Volnay Champans

Jean-Marc Blain-Gagnard, Volnay ChampansA markedly cool nose, and particularly so in the context of the 2019 vintage, reflects notes of essence of red berries, lavender, tea and a hint of newly turned earth. There is more refinement if not density to the utterly delicious medium weight flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the balanced, youthfully austere and solidly persistent finish that is quite firmly structured. This is relatively fine for Champans and a wine that should age

This is at once succulent but entirely serious and is going to need all of a decade to reach its full potential

the 2013 is another real gem from Roberto Conterno

the middle weight flavors possess a sleeker and more refined texture that is aided by the abundant dry extract that buffers the firm but not rustic tannins shaping the impressively persistent finish

The 2020 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvée Elizabeth is spicy and expressive

it shows what this producer can do in a great vintage

It has a round and fleshy mouthfeel

we put the wine immediately in new oak barrel without maceration

Penetrating minerality contributes to the lasting impression of precision and verve

As the description suggests this is on the awkward side but the underlying material is so good that I am optimistic that it will harmonize once it is in bottle

Pierre Rovani has raved about this wine in the past

but a very opulent wine with marked chewy tannins

I much prefer the 2010 La Gaffelière that I tasted the week previously